Who’s Soldering on a Friday Night?

The majority of the kitted synths shipped this week, not all, but most. The first one was built this week by someone other than me. I’m glad to see that the build was successful. I love the smell of validation. At the very least, it means that everything is coming out correct. And I couldn’t be happier than that. Built synths start to ship next week. Tomorrow, I’m having a little solder party with some friends to hopefully get close to finishing the Kickstarter orders entirely. I’ve got about 10 finished, and another 10 in some state of finish. Tomorrow, we’ll be taking down a good portion of the last 10.

If you hadn’t read in the forum, the pcb house neglected to cut slots for the DC power jack. This means you’ll have to basically flush cut the tabs and solder it on. I haven’t noticed any mechanical problems with that, but you’ll want to have it close to the board when the case comes together.

On that note, I’ve finished the case design and will be getting samples next week. I’m waiting for my wife to finish jazzing up the engraving to order it. It’s going to be made from black acrylic. I think it’ll be pretty sweet

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  1. Nice to see this coming along! I know i’ve commented about a million times on these posts, but I was wondering if it’s still possible to (pre-)order a barebones PCB with programmed microcontroller. I definitely want this thing as soon as it’s available since I’m looking for a project for the winter months.

  2. so i got everything sorted with kickstarter, i had negected to check that email account, since i had paid through amazon that has a different email. doh!

    i was wondering, with the DC jack space, would it be possible to drill holes to insert, or the area is just pads to connect to?

    ordering parts from Mouser, the Alpha pots and the 7 segment display is out of stock, gonna use some replacements, pots from Bournes – http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PDB12-H4251-503BFvirtualkey65210000virtualkey652-PDB12-H4251503BF

    just a different color 7 segment – http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SA03-11EWAvirtualkey60400000virtualkey604-SA03-11EWA

    im not sure on this 7 segment…

    • It might be possible to drill holes. The only problem with that is the new hole won’t be plated. It should really be a slot anyways so a round hole with a large enough diameter would be too big. The flush cutting does see to be the best solution.

      As far as pots, there are options. One, i mentioned here.

      There are also these while they last: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/RK09D1130A0S/?qs=m0BA540hBPdED%252bQ4eQDF0A%3d%3d

      Make sure to check the measurements of any substitute pots because they’re not cheap.
      It does look like other colors are the only obvious option for the display. Sticking with simple red might’ve saved some trouble. I wonder why blue is in such short supply.

    • Instead of cutting the legs, you could also trim off the excess metal on the legs to fit the holes. Mark the center-line with a felt-tip pen or marker and dig out the pliers or maybe a dremel.

  3. I can confirm that SA03-11EWA display (red) works fine, got to be careful with those since those come in common cathode and common anode versions

  4. Finished mine a few days ago. Only issue I have is one of the LFO select lights won’t light up, but everything else works.

    I’m getting a really low signal from the Audio Out though, some people mentioned it was stereo out, so I may need to get a Stereo 1/4″ to two mono 1/4″ cable.

    • The LFO 2 LED is connected to R70 which is below the display. If that LED isn’t working, there’s probably a segment of the display that’s not working too. If the display is fully functional, then the LED is probably backwards.

      The stereo jack is your other problem. I think I’m going to change to mono jacks. I have some on order. I’m gonna test it this week and probably make the change.

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